Now that I’m a “little” older (not really that old, I’m 35), it is definitely harder to get a great finish with my foundation. I don’t have wrinkles, but I swear it’s like a foundation can settle into every little dry spot or imperfection. Just by applying via my “old” way (aka- my young self just slathering on with fingers and maybe blending a little by the nose with a sponge) can result in disaster. Truly. And it isn’t even the fault of the foundation, it’s me!
After reading some online about foundation application, watching a ton of YouTube videos and breaking out my old Kevin Aucoin makeup books (the man was a master), I’ve tried out a ton of different foundation techniques. This is what I’ve settled on as the quickest and best method for a flawless foundation application. And really, it isn’t that quick. Sigh.
I prep my skin with a lightweight moisturizer (or BB cream that doesn’t have much coverage, I like the Stila 10 in 1) and an eye cream. I wait a few minutes for it to sink in and then start on foundation. I apply a little to the back of my hand, if I need to mix other shades in then I do it there.
I use a dense brush. This is an IT Cosmetics foundation brush, but I also really like the Urban Decay Optical Blur Brush. I know there’s great love for the MAC skunk brush here, but I’m just not really a fan for some reason.
I dab a little onto the brush and then put that onto the areas I’ll want to cover with dotting. I put it on my nose, the middle of my forehead, chin and cheeks, though really very close to my nose. I apply most of my foundation to the center of my face and use less as I get to the edges, so I have almost none really on my actual cheeks and on my forehead.
Once I have my foundation roughly where I want it, I stipple the area to spread out the foundation into an even application. I let that sit for a minute or two, and I wipe off any excess foundation from my brush onto a kleenex. Then I go back with the same brush and go over the areas with small round circles. If I’m applying concealer, this is when I do it (I apply in a less exaggerated triangle that is suddenly all the rage. More details in my how to use concealer post.)
Next I grab my Beauty Blender sponge. And yeah, it kind of does need to be the Beauty Blender. None of the “dupes” have quite the right consistency, so they don’t have the same results. I bounce the sponge all over the place, using the smaller end around my eyes and nose and the wide end on my forehead and cheeks.
Then I wait a few minutes. If I haven’t done my eyes, this is a good time to do it. But if my eye makeup is a bit more intense, I usually start with my eyes (so I can wipe off any fallout without messing up my foundation) and then do my face. So, I’ll go and do my hair now.
I think the real secret to why this look works is the kleenex. I learned this about 5 years ago from Elke Von Freudenberg, and I had stopped for a few years, but now I’m obsessed again! Take a kleenex and gently blot your face. Be gentle, you don’t want to remove the pigment, but instead you’ll take out some of the oil and “liquid” of the foundation. I usually don’t blot my nose much, somehow that seems to mess up my nose. But this is a must for my chin, cheeks and forehead.
Finally, I apply a very lightweight powder to set everything. I put it under my eyes and in my t-zone only. Lately I’ve really been loving this Aqualillies for tarte Amazonian clay finishing powder. It’s lightweight like the MUFE HD, but more mattifying. It’s apparently limited edition, but I hope Tarte sees the light and keeps it around!