If you’ve done any web surfing recently, you’ve likely noticed the L’Oreal Youth Code Pre-Sale ads everywhere. I mean, everywhere. They are on almost every site I visit. (Actually, not every site. Sometimes I run into the Youth Code Facebook Contest ad instead.)
What exactly is this stuff and should you consider buying it through the pre-sale? Personally, I wanted to know more about the science behind it and why it does (or does not) work.
(Incidentally, I think it does, read on for more info about why.)
I think this is pretty obviously the L’Oreal version of Lancome’s Génifique, which was released not too long ago to much fan fare, and a bit of confusion on my part. Why? Because they talked a lot about modulating gene expression, which to me sounded like something that should be FDA regulated and not just available over the counter. Regardless, the product came out, I have some friends that use (and love) it. So, little sister L’Oreal is getting it’s own version. I did not find any evidence to support gene modulation. There is no evidence of up or down regulation of genes. But, the way the skin behaves is altered.
It was taking forever to find a list of ingredients for Youth Code on-line, so I asked their PR rep what was in the products.
The anti-aging technology in Youth Code is called GenActiv. It’s a powerful combination proprietary formula that includes 3 key ingredients:
1) Biolysat, a good bacteria, regenerates the repair gene
2) Adenosine, a molecule that naturally exists in skin’s DNA and is essential to proper cell functioning; acts as an anti-wrinkle ingredient and stimulates protein synthesis
3) Proprietary blend of peptides
And, of course as soon as she emailed that to me, I finally succeeded in finding a list of ingredients on-line. C’est la vie. Regardless, this is what is in the serum (tip: Serums generally contain the highest concentration of active ingredients in a line) per the CVS pharmacy website (Note, you can get this same list from the L’Oreal website, it just chose not to work for me several days in a row on multiple computers on several browsers, grrr….).
Aqua/Water, Bifida Ferment Lysate, Glycerin, Alcohol Denat., Dimenthicone, Hydroxyethylpiperazine Ethane Sulfonic Acid, Peg-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquisterate, Sodium Hyaluronate, Salicyloyl Phytosphingosine, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Adenosine, Ammonium. Polyacryldimethyltauramide, Disodium Edta, Caprylyl Glycol, Citric Acid, Xanthan Gum, N-Hydroxysuccinimide, Chrysin, Octyldodecanol, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, Limonene, and Parfum.
So, what is what and does it work? Warning- if you read on I’ve gone more medical than I usually do in the interest of you understanding what it is that you’re ordering.
Biolysat = Bifida Ferment Lysate
I have done a bit of reading about Bifida, and what I have discovered is that what we’re really talking about here is Bifidobacterium, also known as Lactobacillus and if you watch a lot of yogurt commercials, Bifidus Regularis (a completely made up name by the way, and it drives me crazy). Basically, the pro-biotics that those in the Gastrointestinal world have been so excited about.
The scientists over at Lancome/L’Oreal have basically taken the bacteria and made a little mixture of it for you to apply to your skin. What evidence do we have that this helps? Well, there is quite a bit in the literature that taken in the correct person and in a fairly large amount that it can help with the microflora of the GI tract and with inflammation there. So… you can eat pro-biotics and they can help. (Note, you usually need to eat a lot more than come in those supplements at the store or in a single yogurt.)
But what about in the skin? Until pretty recently there were only a few studies looking at Bifidobacteriums and the skin, and most of these were related to patients ingesting the pro-biotics and then examining whether there was an effect on eczema/atopic dermatitis (1, 2, 3). As far as I can tell there was evidence in the positive and negative direction regarding ezcema severity and use of pro-biotics, so there are still on-going studies.
Until recently there was nothing available that discussed use of a Bifidobacterium topically, or as an anti-aging agent. At least, nothing that I could find with a large number of Pubmed searches. Luckily, in the August 2010 issue of Experimental Dermatology there was an article that addressed just these topics. However, the research was conducted by Lancome. Generally this is not good thing in medicine, we’d like our research to be completely unrelated (in funding, researchers, et cetera) to the company that creates a product. Why? Because there are fewer conflicts of interest. Does that mean we get what we want? No, after all who is going to suddenly decide on their own to study a specific product with an expensive study? So, while it is less desirable that the research was done by Lancome, it doesn’t discount the research and the fact that it was published in a peer reviewed medical journal (unlike most anti-aging product “results”) is encouraging.
Having said all of that, what did Lancome find? They did a series of involved experiments looking at how a suspension of Bifidobacterium longum reuter (in water basically) altered the skin. The experiments were completed on actual human skin in a petri dish (they got the skin from plastic surgery patients, nothing too gruesome), a second experiment looking at sensory neuron cells in a petri dish, and then finally a clinical study in which 63 human volunteers used a cream with or without the bacterial extract.
The Experiments & Results
1. The pieces of skin obtained from surgery patients were cultured and exposed to a solution of 10% Bifidobacterium longum reuter for 24 hours. They then made a lot of slides and stained them looking for different markers of inflammation.
• They looked at blood vessel dilation after triggering a skin inflammatory response. The Bacterial concentrate decreased vasodilation (good), decreased edema (swelling), and decreased mast cell degranulation (inflammatory cells releasing inflammatory chemicals in your skin), and there was less release of an inflammatory mediator, TNF-alpha. All of this was what you would want to see and the results were significant (p