Thursday, February 21, 2013

Pevonia Spa Clinica: A Peek at the Active Ingredients and Why They Work

Pevonia Spa Clinica
Since I've been using Pevonia Spa Clinica, I've shared with you the products that I'm using and even let you watch my esthetician on-line consultation (what other 35 year old blogger puts huge pics of their face sans makeup and then points out their problem areas?? That took some guts people!) You can check out my Pevonia Spa Clinica posts here.

So, while it's all well and good that I've been having such a great experience so far with the products, but there are other items in the line. So, I thought we'd take a look at all of the items and what PSC has packed into each of them. Because there is a reason they should all do exactly what they promise.


Pevonia Spa Clinica
Anti-Aging Skin Care Regimen
The anti-aging 4 part regimen has many of my favorite anti-aging ingredient categories. Really, most of the ingredients in this regimen are aimed towards supporting the collagen and elastin, found in the dermis.

The basic idea behind collagen and elastin is a lot like my daughter's tensegrity toy. The sticks are collagen, providing structure and rigidity (to a certain extent), and the elastin is the elasticity allowing everything to be held together, to bounce back after being pushed around, you get the idea. (My BME professor husband, who is an extra cellular matrix expert, is probably a bit aghast at how simple I've made this. But it's how it works in my simple intensivist mind.)

The Anti-Aging Regimen includes Collagen and Elastin (from Marine sources) in the products. In truth, I have my doubts that these ingredients are penetrating into the skin to replace collagen and elastin lost with age. Why? Size. Usually these are fairly large molecules, about 3x the size of what can get into the skin (for my fellow science nerds, my derm textbook says these extracts are typically 15-50,000 daltons for collagen while 5,000 daltons is the upper limit of what can penetrate the stratum corneum).

I don't know the size of the ingredients in the Pevonia Spa Clinica products, but even if they are too big is does not that mean that they are completely wasted as ingredients. While hanging out on the surface of the skin the collagen and elastin help to form a film over fine lines and wrinkles, smoothing them out. Add in a moisturizers such as humectants, which have temporary plumping effects, and you get a lot of temporary smoothing effects that should make skin look smoother and younger in a single use.

While you'll find the Collagen and Elastin in all of the products in this regimen, you'll find a great cast of supporting ingredients that will have some great long-term anti-aging benefits.

Cleanser
• Sodium Lauroyl Oat Amino Acids: The 2nd ingredient is from Oats, which shows antioxidant activity, inhibits prostaglandins (anti-inflammatory activity) and works to cleanse the skin
• Collagen (Marine)
• Elastin (Marine)

Toner
• Sorbitol, Hyaluronic Acid: 2 of the top 3 ingredients are humectants, meaning they draw moisture into the skin. Definitely different than the alcohol laden toners in the 1980s
• Collagen (Marine)
• Elastin (Marine)
• Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E): a great anti-oxidant

Wrinkle Serum
• Collagen Polypeptides (Marine)
• Caviar Extract
• Glycerin: A humectant, offers some great skin plumping.

Anti-Aging Moisturizer
• Squalane, Glycerin, Hyaluronic Acid, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sorbitol: I could go on and on. There's a lot of moisture in here.
• Collagen (Marine)
• Elastin (Marine)
• Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E)
• Panthenol: Vitamin B5, this has some anti-inflammatory properties and also is a moisturizer.
• Titanium Dioxide: Note that there isn't a SPF level associated with this moisturizer, but there's quite a bit of Titanium Dioxide, so there will be some good broad spectrum UV coverage.


Pevonia Spa Clinica
Break Out Erase Skin Care Regimen
So, the thing that I love about this acne regimen is that rather than just concentrating on one way to treat acne, Pevonia Spa Clinica has taken a few routes to treating acne. I started to write about acne and how to treat it in this post, but it took on a life of its own, and you can read all about Acne simplified and how to treat it.

In this regimen you'll find some very proven ways to treat acne. I like that Pevonia Spa Clinica seems to have gone out of their way to include so many proven ingredients in their regimen:
• Salicylic Acid: Anti-inflammatory and clears out the pore
• Lactic Acid: Alpha hydroxy acid, this helps to clear out the pores and improve cell turn over.
• Benzoyl Peroxide 5%: Anti-bacterial
• Sulfur: Also anti-bacterial, it modulates skin sloughing
• Retinyl Palmitate: Vitamin A, a retinoid

Breakout Erase Cleanser
• Salicylic Acid
• Lactic Acid

Breakout Erase Toner
• Salicylic Acid
• Lactic Acid

Acne Spots Serum
• Salicylic Acid
• Benzoyl Peroxide
• Sulfur
• Vitamin E

Breakout Erase Moisturizer
• Salicylic Acid
• Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sorbitol: I could go on and on. There's a lot of moisture in here.
• Retinyl Palmitate
• Calcium Ascorbate: Vitamin C, an antioxidant
• Lactic Acid

Pevonia Spa Clinica
Redness Relief Skin Care Regimen
Green Tea (Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract) contains polyphenols, which are known for their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, though they even suppress cancer. While most of the research into these effects used intake of the polyphenols rather than topical use, "most researchers agree that tea (black, green, or white) has potent anti-inflammatory properties and that it is a potent antioxidant whether consumed orally or applied topically" (Per Green Tea at Paula's Choice).

Redness Relief Cleanser
• Sodium Lauroyl Oat Amino Acids: The 2nd ingredient is from Oats, which shows antioxidant activity, inhibits prostaglandins (anti-inflammatory activity) and works to cleanse the skin
• Green Tea
• Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract (Chamomile): Antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial

Redness Relief Toner
• Sorbitol: A humectant
• Green Tea
• Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract (Chamomile)
• Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate: This is a salt derived from Licorice Root, it is known to have anti-inflammatory and soothing properties. It is also thought to decrease melanin production, so is often included in brightening products.
• Panthenol: Vitamin B5, it acts as a humectant and emollient. It can also accelerate wound healing and has some anti-inflammatory action.

Visible Redness Serum
• Green Tea
• Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract (Chamomile)
• Glycerin, Sorbitol: More moisture

Redness Relief Moisturizer
• Squalane, Glycerin, Sorbitol
• Corylus Avellana (Hazel) Seed Oil: This contains a lot of different fatty acids (oleic acid, linoleic acid, palmitic acid and stearic acid), which are good for
• Green Tea
• Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate: The Licorice Root stuff again
• Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil: More fatty acids that your skin will love
• Tocopherol (Vitamin E), Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E)

Pevonia Spa Clinica
Skin Perfecting Skin Care Regimen
If you've read my previous Pevonia Spa Clinica posts, then you know that this is the regimen that I'm using. While most of us think of retinoids as only anti-aging, they are actually quite a bit more (more about how retinoids work in the skin). Pevonia Spa Clinica is using it to fight aging but also leveraging the melanocyte-keratinocyte pigment transferring interference (aka- hyperpigmentation fighting) to create an all in one product line that will fight all sorts of badness you brought upon yourself by ignoring sunscreen in your teen years.

Skin Perfecting Cleanser
• Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride: All for moisture
• Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil: This oil has fatty acids that your skin will love
• Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract (Chamomile): Antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial
• Retinol
• Tocopherol (Vitamin E)
• Sodium Ascorbate (a variant of Vitamin C)

Skin Perfecting Toner
• Glycerin, Hyaluronic Acid, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
• Chamomile
• Aloe
• Retinol
• Tocopherol (Vitamin E)
• Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (another variant of Vitamin C)

Wrinkle Plus Serum
• Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sorbitol
• Retinol
• Tocopherol (Vitamin E)
• Sodium Ascorbate (a variant of Vitamin C)

Skin Perfecting Moisturizer
• Squalane, Glycerin, Sorbitol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
• Collagen (Marine Origin, check out the anti-aging regimen for more explanation)
• Elastin (Marine)
• Calcium Ascorbate, Sodium Ascorbate (Vitamin C)
• Retinol
• Tocopherol (Vitamin E)


Pevonia Spa Clinica
Aging Eye Serum
Caviar in eye cream? Yup. Typically you'll find Caviar in very high end skin care like La Prarie. And don't forget all the Alterna hair care products. It just sounds incredibly high and luxurious, as if you're taking a bath in La Mer, doesn't it? The truth is that caviar extract is very rich in Arginine and Omega Fatty Acids. Which are great for the skin, but there isn't a lot of convincing evidence that they work topically like they do when taken in supplements. (Check out the Caviar in Skin Care article over on Truth in Aging. They've summed it up very nicely.)

I'm not convinced that the caviar extract will do wonders for your skin, but I'm sure it can't hurt. Really, I know Pevonia Spa Clinica lists that as the "key" ingredient, but this eye cream has soooo many other great things in it that I could care less about that caviar. There are a ton of great anti-aging ingredients (the peptides and antioxidants), great moisturizing ingredients to plump up the area, the collagen will help smooth things out a bit, and there's even a little retinoid.

• Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Glycerin, Sorbitol, Hyaluronic Acid: All great for moisture, which helps to plump up the under eye area and make it all look better!
• Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone, it looks like it is targeted to the under eye area, here's a great article on Hesperidin Methyl Chalcone from Truth in Aging
• Dipeptide-2, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptides-3peptides in skin care
• Collagen Polypeptides (Marine): Check out the Anti-Aging Regimen for more information above
• Niacinamide: Check out this post for how Niacinamide works in skin care
• Caviar Extract
• Oligosaccharides (Algae) Extract: Algae extracts typically are high in antioxidants and minerals
• Tocopheryl Acetate: Vitamin E, an antioxidant
• Retinyl Palmitate: Vitamin A, a Retinoid


Pevonia Spa Clinica
Aging Neck Serum
Kigelia Africana Fruit Extract is a traditional african fruit that is the key ingredient in this product. What's really interesting about this fruit (other than the fact that it kind of looks like a sausage) is that it is actually used to treat skin cancer in some parts of Asia and Europe. It also has some anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, and there is some evidence that it helps with "firming".

• Collagen Polypeptides (Marine): Check out the Anti-Aging Regimen for more information above
• Glycerin: Great for moisture


Pevonia Spa Clinica
Under Eye Serum
Sodium Hyaluronate (aka- Hyaluronic Acid) has long been one of my favorite moisturizers. It is super lightweight, but it brings a ton of moisture because it can hold 10x its weight in water! That's just what you want under your eye, it will really plump everything up.

• Sodium Hyaluronate Spherulites,
• Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate: A stable form of Vitamin C
• Squalane, Glycerin: Both are great for even more moisture
• Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract
• Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract (Chamomile): Antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial


Do you want to try out Pevonia Spa Clinica?
Pevonia Spa Clinica is currently holding a program that lets you try the products for free for 3 weeks! You can learn more about it on the Pevonia Spa Clinica website, but basically you buy a trial sized basic regimen for $19, make sure you pick "study group offer". After 3 weeks they'll send you a 10 minute questionnaire. If you fill it out they'll refund your $19.

Check out all of my Pevonia Spa Clinica posts

Pevonia Spa Clinica
Pevonia Spa Clinica Facebook Page
Sponsored Post

10 comments:

violinmakinfool said...

Thanks for such an in-depth description and review! I find the science end of skin care and makeup fascinating. I went ahead and ordered the trial sized skin perfecting regimen to check it out for myself.

Nicki Zevola (FutureDerm) said...

Nice review, Christine! As always, love your site!

Rebecca said...

I used your link to order the Breakout Erase trial regimen and have been using it for four days now. Like you, I was impressed with the number and concentration of active ingredients. I like the cleanser - it's gentle and not stripping but gets a thorough clean. The toner is hard to use - I don't like the "spray on a cotton round" part of it. A lot of the product gets wasted and I don't feel like much gets on the skin, and it has an odd smell. I would repurchase, though, because it's hard to find a toner that has active ingredients but no alcohol. The serum has a nice consistency and feel, but a bad smell from the sulfur. I won't use it much because I don't want my skin and hair to smell like that. I really like the moisturizer. It has lots of active ingredients (benzoyl peroxide and BHA) but it's still hydrating yet not greasy at all. It wears well under makeup too.
It's too soon to tell how effective the regimen is, but I haven't had any adverse reactions other than some dryness and peeling on my nose. The only product from the regimen for which I'd pay full price at this point is the moisturizer, and the toner if I could get a bottle that didn't have a sprayer. The cleanser is good but not special enough for the price point and the serum is a no-go because of the funky smell.

Jen Mathews said...

What a great review!

Megan O'Brien said...

Lately I have been seeing Pevonia everywhere and now am totally sold! I've been "eyeing" their eye gel. I've been told it is fabulous and you can put it right on the lid without it oozing in your eyeballs. THe face cream is also getting tons of buzz. Thanks Christine, another product to buy!!

Gloria said...

Love your in-depth review! Xoxoxo

Ellen said...

Thanks, Christine! I'd love to try it - other than the breakout regimen, are the other ones safe in pregnancy?

Ellen said...

Oops, the skin perfecting/wrinkle also looks like a no-no!

Christine Mikesell said...

Thanks for the comments everyone!

@Rebecca- so great to hear from someone using the Breakout Erase! I think that will be a popular regimen, though I can't test it myself :D I know what you mean about wondering if you're wasting too much toner. I actually feel like I'm wasting too much toner when I don't have the spray, just because so much then soaks into the cotton round! Also, my friend Jessika (from Polish Insomniac) also hates the smell of the toner, but I have to admit it doesn't bother me and I had not a clue what she was talking about when she mentioned it! I was basically sticking the cotton round up my nose to see why it was so bothersome. I found it to be similar to the other products.

@Meg- I really love the Pevonia Botanica C Eye Gel! I haven't tried the eye specific products in the Spa Clinica range, but I've heard good things too.

@Ellen- Pretty much only the Redness Relief products are ok in pregnancy. The others all contain Retinoids or other ingredients that are meant to be avoided.

Phyrra said...

That eye serum sounds nice!

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