Today's Skin post is a guest post from Nicki, over at Future Derm. Nicki is currently in school, planning to attend medical school in just a few short months and then I'm sure that this girl is eventually going to conquer the world of dermatology! She publishes daily posts that are extremely in depth about a huge array of cosmetic dermatologic issues!
To quote Meg Ryan in You've Got Mail, "Fight, fight, fight!" Start each day off with a multivitamin that contains vitamin C and linoleic acid, which has been recently reported in a study amongst 4000 women to reduce wrinkles. Next, apply an antioxidant serum and sunscreen or moisturizer with sunscreen, concentrating on the area around your eyes. Be careful that the formulations are tolerated well around the delicate eye area. My well-touted favorites are Skinceuticals CE Ferulic ($107.00, Amazon.com) and NIA 24 Physical Sunscreen SPF 30 ($42.95, Amazon.com), but I also love the new Neutrogena Ultra Sheer Dry Touch Sunscreen SPF 85 ($8.99, Drugstore.com) for ultima supremo sun protection (the most photostable out there, according to some reports). During the day, Dr. Perricone also recommends that you eat a diet rich in fruits and vegetables (for antioxidant activity), salmon (for omega-3s), healthy fats (think almonds and olive oil), and full of water and green or white tea to keep skin glowing. After all, nutrition and skin care together have better results than skin care alone.
At night, use a retinoid cream, followed by a moisturizer with DMAE, niacinamide, or antioxidants, provided your skin can tolerate it. The retinoid treatment is easier to choose: there is 0.5% retinol in Skinceuticals Retinol 0.5 ($32.95, Amazon.com), 0.6% retinol in Green Cream Level 6 ($42.95, Amazon.com) 0.9% retinol in Green Cream Level 9 ($49.95, Amazon.com), and 1.0% retinol in Skinceuticals Retinol 1.0 ($52.00, Amazon.com). You may want to start with a lesser concentration of retinol, applied every 2-3 nights, and gradually work up to nightly use.
As for a nightly moisturizer, Dr. Nicholas Perricone recommends using DMAE, which has been found and reported in two independent studies in The Textbook of Cosmetic Dermatology and Skin Research and Dermatology to significantly firm skin in the undereye area. A product with a high concentration of DMAE is NV Perricone Vitamin C Ester Amine Face Lift ($95.00, Sephora.com), and another designed for around the eyes with slightly less DMAE is NV Perricone Advanced Eye Area Therapy ($95.00, Sephora.com). (P.S.: Free shipping is also available for a limited time on orders of $50 or more from Sephora with the code SHIPPING50 at checkout!)
If DMAE is too harsh for your skin, niacinamideand antioxidants have also been found to have beneficial effects against wrinkles, in various studies. My favorite moisturizer with niacinamide is Olay Regenerist, while my favorite antioxidant moisturizer is RevaléSkin Night Cream.
Once a week, in lieu of your usual nightly routine, use a glycolic acid treatment, provided again that your skin can handle it. (Consult your dermatologist if you are unsure.) Two of my favorite glycolic acid peels are MD Skincare: Dr. Dennis Gross Alpha Beta Daily Face Peel ($75.00 for a thirty-day supply, Sephora.com) and Peter Thomas Roth UnWrinkle Peel Pads ($45.00, Amazon.com). Click here for a full review of the Dr. Dennis Gross peel; click here for a review of the Peter Thomas Roth Un-Wrinkle Peel Pads.
Then go see your dermatologist to look even better.
In the Journal of Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery, amongst many other sources, Botox injections have been found to make a dramatic difference in wrinkles. According to Dr. Jeffrey Benabio, M.D., in this month's Oprah magazine, Botox injections partially paralyze the orbicularis orbis muscle to prevent it from contracting, which causes further wrinkling (and shows off the wrinkles you already have).
Benabio also recommends injectable fillers, like Restylane, to fill up the lines. Injections generally last 6-12 months, and are usually redone every 6 months. The cost is generally upwards of $500 per injection, but this varies by practitioner.
Last but not least, Benabio recommends dermatologist-strength chemical peels and lasers to stimulate collagen production, keeping the skin firm and crow's feet production down in the future.
Yes, you can do it!
Always keep in mind that dermatology today is a lot more powerful than in years past. You can improve and prevent wrinkles, but, like everything else, it takes time, patience, knowledge, funds, and dedication.
Let me know what works for you! I love hearing feedback!