What exactly is N6-furfuryladenine? It is a protein, originally derived in 1955 from herring sperm that had been autoclaved (basically baked in an incredibly hot oven). Really. I kid you not. It has also been found in most plants (it is considered a "phytohormone", aka- plant hormone), and in human cells.
Until the mid-1990's it was thought that Kinetin was anti-tumorigenic and that it inhibited growth. Then, someone discovered that it dramatically increases the life span of fruit flies by 65% (not a subtle increase), and retarded their aging by about 25%. Really! Suddenly it became a new "hot" item, and lots of people became to study these anti-aging effects. Over time, it's been found to increase the natural antioxidant activity within tissues like thymus (a big gland in your chest). Kinetin has been found to really affect the way fibroblasts within the dermis age. The fibroblasts retain their "younger" level of collagen production, reproduction of the fibroblasts themselves and their growth rate while in a petri dish. Their life span remains unaffected.
Has all of this amazing sounding research translated into big changes in the skin? Well, if this stuff was absolutely amazing it would be in every product on the market. And, I wouldn't still be telling you that only Retin A has been proven to really fight the signs of aging. There have been small clinical studies (sponsored by the company that used to own Kinerase) that showed that patients with photoaging did have mild improvement in skin texture, mottling and fine wrinkles. As well, moisture retention was improved. But, note that these changes weren't seen until after 24 weeks (6 months!) worth of twice a day application. But, there's a lot of stuff in the anti-aging world that we don't have a lot of evidence for yet, so I'm willing to try pretty much anything!
Complicating all of this even further is Kinetin's difficulty in dissolving into a liquid. It is incredibly picky, and will dissolve into ether, acetone, ethanol as well as some acids and bases, but not into distilled water. Which means that you can't add Kinetin to just anything, it has to be very carefully formulated for the Kinetin to work.
So, having said all of that, I decided to try this stuff out to see if it lived up to the hype. I tried the Kinerase Cream with SPF 30. I've said in the past that I have combination skin with occasional small break outs, so if anything I was worried that a cream would be way too hydrating for my skin.
I'm just going to come right out and say that I did not like this cream at all. It isn't silky during application (I think I'm a bit too used to silicone in my products), and it is difficult to spread evenly. It is not hydrating. Not one bit. I was left with dry and uncomfortable cheeks every day while using this creme. Worst of all, I had to stop using it within five days. I suddenly had large, cystic blemishes on my forehead, next to my nose and on my chin. I've never had blemishes like this before, and these appeared suddenly about two days after I started using the Kinerase.
It took my skin a full month to recover from five days of Kinerase! I have to say that this cream is definitely on my Do Not Recommend list.
If you would like to try Kinetin, but in a cheaper or alternative form, it is also available in lotions from Almay and The Body Shop.
• Titanium Dioxide 6%
• Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 7%
Inactive Ingredients: Purified Water, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Ethoxydiglycol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Glycerin, Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides, Stearic Acid, Dimethicone, Cetyl Alcohol, Silica, Phenoxyethanol, Peg-100 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Alumina, Peg-12 Glyceryl Distearate, Sorbitan Stearate, Sodium Hexamethaphosphate, Triethanolamine, Methylparaben, Carbomer, Disodium EDTA, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Propylparaben, Pyris Communis (Pear) Fruit Extract, Kinetin, Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract, Ferula Assa Foetida Root Extract, Ethylparaben, Laminaria Digitata (Algae) Extract, Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer, Butylparaben.
***A quick warning about Kinerase- There is a warning on Kinerase that you should not use it if you are pregnant, plan to become pregnant or are breast feeding. I'm not quite sure why it is there. Likely due to the fact that Kinetin has not been studied in the setting of pregnancy so it is unknown what its effects will be. However, I think it's wise to steer clear of anything with Kinetin with this type of warning.